Eastern Peleponnisos

We decided to make bigger leaps while the gypsy was suspect, and besides which Stefan had been raving about Monemvasia – so that’s where we headed (52NM) using code zero, wing on wing with main/genoa and ending with 2 reefs in the main – a fun packed sail. It took a couple of tries to anchor due to the slow dropping pace of the windlass – by the time it landed on the bottom first time, we’d drifted off too far. So now I will have to semi-deploy the anchor (to about half depth) and have Laurie try to maintain position while I slowly pay out more rode…

We actually anchored just outside the marina at Gefira – a short walk to Monemvasia. Gefira is not that special, but friendly (as everywhere) and had a good supermarket and an excellent butcher – so who’s complaining.

Monemvasia – walled city with castle above and acropolis on the top (not visible).

In the morning we walked over to Monemvasia – and what a treat was in store. The town is completely walled in and all the ‘streets’ are narrow paths such that no vehicles can be used. This makes servicing the numerous B&B’s, hotels, restaurants and shops rather more than onerous – as everything has to be brought in on hand trucks. Even the hand trucks couldn’t get everywhere due to the numerous staircases! With the heat we’d been experiencing, those poor buggers were really suffering.

We walked around the main town – an interesting tour in an of itself – and then set off upwards to the castle – and beyond… Of course we picked about the hottest time of day – can’t be that bad, it’s September afterall – not! It was a hot walk up via the narrow ‘streets’ and stairways and arrival was through a doorway and passage – and into some very refreshing shade and cool! Within the castle is a well preserved church and a whole bunch of broken bits.

Well above the castle – another climb – we came upon the ruins of the very old citadel/acropolis – fascinating and a great view! (Turns out it was the site of the acropolis – not a column in sight!)

On the way to the old citadel and acropolis

When we arrived back to the lower town, a late lunch was in order at a very nice little restaurant. We learned the consequences of the inaccessibility – prices were rather higher than in more normal towns and villages!

Unfortunately, we had to move on the following day as weather was approaching (Meltemi), so we

headed north towards Ermioni, but stopped short at an anchorage with good shelter to wait out the worst of the wind. We met up with Rob and Selma on catamaran Yip Yip, who we’d briefly seen in Monemvasia and had coffees with them before they headed out to Ermioni. We should have gone with them because that night we rocked and rolled all night in the Meltemi’s swell. Not a happy crew!

So off to Ermioni where we were to rendezvous with Mokendeist again. Unfortunately we picked the north anchorage which had lousy holding and was jam packed with charter boats that didn’t have much of a clue! The next day we switched to the much deeper anchorage on the south side of town, which was very pleasant and quiet. Ermioni is a great place to provision and Laurie was able to get an imaginative haircut – but no worries love, it’ll grow out eventually!

We had an interesting dinner experience with Stefan, Anne, Rob and Selma at a recommended restaurant… The clue should have been pretty obvious when he came to take our drinks order – and we learned that they were out of red wine… what restaurant ever runs completely out of wine? We decided to make do with beer – suck it up and learn a little more about our new friends. When the meals were ordered, we hit a similar issue – only about 20% of the items were available… oh well, make do! Just to top it all off, the biting insects were murderous – and when we went inside to pay, we found that they had a can of bug spray they could easily have loaned us! I suspect Laurie’s review wasn’t quite as complimentary as the reviews that had led us there in the first place!

Car Trip

We managed to rent a car in Ermioni to drive around the various “sites to see”) and to make a provisioning stop at Stefan and Anne’s favorite… Lidl

Our first stop was to Epidavros – a magnificent (and ancient) amphitheater, that unlike the rest of Greece’s relics, is not in pieces! In fact they still have events there – and I believe (could be just hype) that Pavarotti has performed there… Anyway, it’s spectacular! If you stand on the focal point right in the middle, you can speak normally and someone at the top of the theater can hear you! Neat those ancient Greeks!