We decided to make bigger leaps while the gypsy was suspect, and besides which Stefan had been raving about Monemvasia – so that’s where we headed (52NM) using code zero, wing on wing with main/genoa and ending with 2 reefs in the main – a fun packed sail. It took a couple of tries to anchor due to the slow dropping pace of the windlass – by the time it landed on the bottom first time, we’d drifted off too far. So now I will have to semi-deploy the anchor (to about half depth) and have Laurie try to maintain position while I slowly pay out more rode…

We actually anchored just outside the marina at Gefira – a short walk to Monemvasia. Gefira is not that special, but friendly (as everywhere) and had a good supermarket and an excellent butcher – so who’s complaining.

In the morning we walked over to Monemvasia – and what a treat was in store. The town is completely walled in and all the ‘streets’ are narrow paths such that no vehicles can be used. This makes servicing the numerous B&B’s, hotels, restaurants and shops rather more than onerous – as everything has to be brought in on hand trucks. Even the hand trucks couldn’t get everywhere due to the numerous staircases! With the heat we’d been experiencing, those poor buggers were really suffering.

We walked around the main town – an interesting tour in an of itself – and then set off upwards to the castle – and beyond… Of course we picked about the hottest time of day – can’t be that bad, it’s September afterall – not! It was a hot walk up via the narrow ‘streets’ and stairways and arrival was through a doorway and passage – and into some very refreshing shade and cool! Within the castle is a well preserved church and a whole bunch of broken bits.

Well above the castle – another climb – we came upon the ruins of the very old citadel/acropolis – fascinating and a great view! (Turns out it was the site of the acropolis – not a column in sight!)

When we arrived back to the lower town, a late lunch was in order at a very nice little restaurant. We learned the consequences of the inaccessibility – prices were rather higher than in more normal towns and villages!

Unfortunately, we had to move on the following day as weather was approaching (Meltemi), so we

headed north towards Ermioni, but stopped short at an anchorage with good shelter to wait out the worst of the wind. We met up with Rob and Selma on catamaran Yip Yip, who we’d briefly seen in Monemvasia and had coffees with them before they headed out to Ermioni. We should have gone with them because that night we rocked and rolled all night in the Meltemi’s swell. Not a happy crew!

So off to Ermioni where we were to rendezvous with Mokendeist again. Unfortunately we picked the north anchorage which had lousy holding and was jam packed with charter boats that didn’t have much of a clue! The next day we switched to the much deeper anchorage on the south side of town, which was very pleasant and quiet. Ermioni is a great place to provision and Laurie was able to get an imaginative haircut – but no worries love, it’ll grow out eventually!

We had an interesting dinner experience with Stefan, Anne, Rob and Selma at a recommended restaurant… The clue should have been pretty obvious when he came to take our drinks order – and we learned that they were out of red wine… what restaurant ever runs completely out of wine? We decided to make do with beer – suck it up and learn a little more about our new friends. When the meals were ordered, we hit a similar issue – only about 20% of the items were available… oh well, make do! Just to top it all off, the biting insects were murderous – and when we went inside to pay, we found that they had a can of bug spray they could easily have loaned us! I suspect Laurie’s review wasn’t quite as complimentary as the reviews that had led us there in the first place!

Car Trip

We managed to rent a car in Ermioni to drive around the various “sites to see”) and to make a provisioning stop at Stefan and Anne’s favorite… Lidl

Our first stop was to Epidavros – a magnificent (and ancient) amphitheater, that unlike the rest of Greece’s relics, is not in pieces! In fact they still have events there – and I believe (could be just hype) that Pavarotti has performed there… Anyway, it’s spectacular! If you stand on the focal point right in the middle, you can speak normally and someone at the top of the theater can hear you! Neat those ancient Greeks!

We then moved on to a very old (and very broken) citadel…

Before we head to Lidl, a quick side trip to look at some caved-in caves… one of which they had built not one, but two chapels into the cliff face!

Next stop: Aegean Islands – and family arrives… stay tuned!

Another great castle greeted us in Methoni – it’s amazing how big these castles are!

We’re finding it to be really pretty hot still – mid 90’s – and the water is also quite warm – low 80’s.

A nice little breakaway to a small island south of Methoni called Sapientza gave us a very peaceful night and a nice walk up to the lighthouse. The lighthouse is a beautifully constructed building – but like so many is in complete disrepair. We were amazed that evening to see it emitting light as both Stefan and I were convinced it was completely dysfunctional.

Just before dusk I spotted a magnificent mountain goat with the biggest horns ever!

Our next stop was Foinikounta which is where we are to say goodbye to Anne and Stefan as they’re bored of having a broken fridge – and a new one has arrived, but 150 miles away! However, we made a trek to a local Olive Oil pressing facility for a demonstration – bloody place was closed!

Our next anchorage at Porto Cagio was around the bottom of the second ‘finger’ of the Peleponnisos and the run south was truly spectacular – as was the arrival into a dramatic anchorage…

…but I’d have enjoyed it more if the chain gypsy on our windlass didn’t break! The cast bronze gypsy simply split in half while laying out 60M of chain!

As is often the way, I dreamt gypsy’s that night and in the morning hatched (and accomplished!) a temporary fix – which would allow us the continue using it. However, our normal mode of operation when deploying the anchor is to loosen the clutch and let the anchor free-fall to the bottom – this is no longer possible as the clutch is jammed on hard – keeping the two halves of the thing together. Our windlass is VERY slow, so anchoring from here on in is going to be challenging – and I’ve no idea how we’ll manage to med-moor again. Fortunately, brother to the rescue! Steve will bring a new gypsy to us that we’ll have shipped from California – so we’ll only have to manage like this for about 3 weeks.

Next stop – Monemvasia – a really special location!

Ionian and North-Western Peleponnisos

Unlike many of our friends who first travelled up the sole of Italy’s boot to Brindisi before crossing to Greece, we opted to leave from the toe – Spropolo – and head directly for the Ionian Island of Zakinthos (though being Toodle-oo!, we made landfall in Kefallinia!) for a passage distance of 240+/-NM. We left at 6:00am on July 31st and arrived August 1st at 6pm. We’d had good sailing for the most part – but still ended up motoring about 25%.

Instead of going straight to Argostoli to check in we anchored off a beautiful little cove for a couple of days, being joined by friends Anne and Stefan on Mokendeist on the second day – a nice gentle way to introduce ourselves to Greece. The Ionian islands are much greener than we were expecting.

We officially entered Greece on August 3rd at Argostoli and managed to clear in successfully and without too much hassle as all the officials we had to meet were roughly in the same building complex. We received our all important Transit Log – which means that we have to check in – and out – of every port we enter. Once in, we began to explore a very different country indeed and were immediately welcomed by everyone – who for the most part spoke some degree of English. So different to our experience in Italy.

A couple of days in ‘the big smoke’ and we decided to move back to our arrival anchorage – and a couple of days later, began a slow trek south towards the Peleponnisos peninsular, stopping first at a crystal clear anchorage at Spartia on the south coast of Kefalonia. We’d left Mokendeist in Argostoli awaiting a fridge repair – but we also had an important appointment in Zakinthos for a scooter rental – having been unable to rent one in Argostoli. Unfortunately with no wind, we motored the entire way – and then faced Med-Mooring in the main port at Zakinthos. Fortunately with calm winds we managed successfully and without damage to boat or pride!

A couple of days later including 2 short sails we anchored up in Katakolon on Greece’s Peleponnisos peninsula which we would use as a base to visit – by train – the ancient site of Olympia where the first 1,000 Olympic games were held. Katakolon isn’t much to write home about – but with the train connection, it’s the obvious place to visit Olympia from – which even though it’s a World Heritage site, is not all that much to write home about either – it’s broken!

A long sail to Pylos followed – a marvelous little town with a large castle – and a smaller older castle across the bay. Both were very interesting to visit. While in Pylos, I took advantage of having a dive shop close by so was able to easily replenish my tank (which I exchanged for my old one) on a regular basis, spending 3 days to get Toodle-oo!’s bottom cleaned of all the growth. Thank you Anne for your assistance!

Another great castle awaits us further south in Methoni – but that’s for the next installment!