This is a long one – sorry…
We took advantage of the winds and set off from Sifnos after a quick breakfast with Steve and Sue. They’d be getting a ferry back to Athens later in the day.
Paros
Our destination was Naousa in the north of Paros where we’d be able to wait out some high southerly winds with decent shelter. The 37 mile trip was a mix of everything with a bit of motoring, some Code Zero and some Spinnaker. For a while we gained a hitchhiker – a swallow decided the free ride was a good one! We arrived early evening to a large bay and decided to anchor quite a way from the marina in order to take advantage of the better shelter.
We relaxed while the wind blew through, then the following day took a bus to the capital Parikas where we got a few provisions. On the way back across the anchorage we stopped at ‘Plan B’ a US flagged catamaran with Alex aboard, who invited us on for a glass or two of wine. Plan B and Toodle-oo! will be berth buddies in Finike for the winter.
Strangely, Paros didn’t click for us (as evidenced by not a single photograph!) and the following morning we headed over to the adjacent island, Naxos.
Naxos
We had an anchorage Agios Georgios, to ourselves opposite a popular swimming beach with lots of beach tavernas adorned with chairs and umbrellas. We checked in with the Port Police and then found a car rental place and took a trip around the island.
We particularly liked the ‘Marble City’ Apeiranthos where we had a light lunch at a lovely street restaurant.
A really good butcher and grocery store was just 10 minutes from the dinghy dock, so we took full advantage as we knew we were going to be tucked up due to some Meltemi winds and therefore needed to get a move on to a southern anchorage to wait it out. We chose to head for Kalantos in the south which has a small anchorage, a very small harbor and two tavernas – one of which had an excellent reputation!
We arrived to find Kalantos bay empty, but anchoring was rather interesting as the depth was really restricted. We settled right in the middle of the bay – no doubt causing consternation among later arrivals, only one of which was also able to anchor with us within the bay!
We decided not to head to the taverna that night – but then the following morning found out that the taverna was closing for the season that same day – and would only be open for lunch! Ok, lunch it is! It was delicious and we were both glad we made it. Moreover, we’d met two new British friends Kathy and Mark, aboard Ubulukutu (took me a while to learn how to say that!) and they joined us for lunch. Excellent food and excellent company.
The following day we took advantage of the almost empty harbor to tie up next to Ubulukutu – and we got somewhat stuck there for the next five days as the wind howled. Fortunately we were able to socialize with Kathy and Mark in our full enclosure and we even rented the harbormaster’s car for a day to go travelling about, re-visiting the places we’d seen before.
We managed to get a couple of nice walks in too before the wind finally allowed us to continue on our way to…
Amorgos
We were now being hounded by the Meltemi – unusual for this time of year – and only got to spend a couple of days in Amorgos. A shame as it appears we would really enjoy this island – however, where we were anchored would have been untenable (lee shore) in the Meltemi.
We did get ashore for a couple of days prior to the winds – on the first, we had a lack-luster dinner at the ‘Corner Cafe’ but at least we enjoyed a sundowner at ‘The Moon Bar’ – the spot for watching the sun go down over the small fishing port.
On day two, we rented a car and headed up to the Chora and then walked to the famous monastery of Hozoviotissa – an impressive site that took quite an effort to get to… the chora at the top of the mountain, then we face a walk down a cliff face(!) to the entrance to the monastery and then up the next cliff face to the monastery itself. In the end I was a bit disappointed with the inside – since I’d walked there in dress code and was boiling! The construction however is very impressive…
Afterwards we headed north east to Aigialis – the northernmost bay where we had a very pleasant lunch. On the way we passed several very interesting looking anchorages and made a mental note to return to Amorgos if possible.
We enjoyed the Moon Bar so much we went back for another sundowner that evening – our last – for the time being – in Amorgos.
Levitha
Levitha lies about halfway between Amorgos and Kos and has a protected harbor, so we used it as a resting spot. Mark and Kathy had advised us that the only thing there was a bunch or moorings belonging to the only taverna on the tiny island and explained that the mooring fee is paid with the meal – which was apparently worth going for. So we went!
After a bit of a slow start, we had a very good sail across, finishing with a race against an Outremer catamaran ‘Curious,’ (which unsurprisingly we lost to!) and pulled into the mooring field behind them and tucked ourselves in among the other boats. In due course the taverna owner came by in his boat and we said we’d be coming for dinner…
Not wanting to be there too early, we planned a 7:00pm arrival – which involved clambering over a rough pathway – which was going to be lots of fun in the dark coming back. We were unfortunately the last to arrive along with the crew of Curious and were shown to our prepared table. The place was packed. The guys at the next table explained that the menu was not written but was Fish, Lamb or Goat. We ordered (and drank!) a liter of wine before he even came back and took our order – and by the time he did, the only thing on the menu was fish! I guess we’re having fish – along with another half liter.
The stumble back along the path was indeed interesting!
Kos
Another 35 mile sail, downwind saw us arrive in Kamari at the south western end of Kos. It was October 12th – well in time for Abigail & Greg’s arrival on the 21st! However, the early arrival meant I’d be able to go by bus into Kos town – at the opposite, north eastern end of the island(!!!) – to pick up my long lost computer finally! Can’t wait! So we took the bus up to Kos town, noting along the way that Kos is really not the prettiest island and unlike the other Greek islands, it is totally covered in trash. Once in Kos town, we walked the mile or so to the ACS Courier office, queued outside for nearly an hour, to be told that the package had been returned to the sender the previous day – even though ACS had said they’d hold the package until October 23rd! Tempers were held in check but disappointment wasn’t! An email back to ACS and a few more days wait…
For Abigail’s arrival, we decided to move to Kardamena – much closer to the airport – with an anchorage outside a free harbor. Initially we anchored to explore the nice little town and discovered a walk to an old castle on my ‘Komoot’ App. When we got to the ‘Trail Head’ we found that it was a paved path and sponsored by the EU to the tune of €14,577,000!!! What a diabolical waste of resources. It would have been so much nicer of a walk if it had simply been left natural.
On our second day there, we took a ride into the harbor on the dinghy and found that there was a spot available for us to med moor in the harbor – so we decided to do that – it would make getting on and off the boat so much easier.
Disaster Strikes!
I brought the boat in and was setting up to drop the anchor and reverse into the only available spot, between a large power boat and a sailboat. It’s important to put the anchor down right in front of the chosen berth to reduce the risk of fouling with another boat’s anchor. My first attempt was just slightly out of position, so I decided to just make a circle and try it again. I slowly motored around and suddenly we hit something – I felt a strong pull on the helm. The boat lurched and stopped, then carried on again – but unfortunately, in the process, the rudder had been bent and was now impinging on the hull, allowing only slight movement – between half starboard and full starboard!
What to do? We were in the middle of the harbor, fortunately no wind, unable to move in a straight line either forwards or backwards…
The Greek army (marines?) were on exercise and moving around in ribs within the harbor so might have provided help, but Laurie failed to attract their attention and was about to blow a signal whistle at them when I stopped her… Toodle-oo! was somewhat stationary at just about the right position for the vacant slip… I had Laurie drop the anchor and started the boat moving backwards. Even with starboard rudder applied, if you blast the engine in reverse, the boat will initially move to port. This is due to a phenomenon called prop-wash. As the boat moves backwards, the propwash is counteracted by the rudder, which brings us back to port… So, by juggling us between forward and back, light engine and heavy engine, I was actually able to bring Toodle-oo! pretty much straight back into the berth – without hitting the boats on either side! I was very thankful however to enlist the assistance of Andy on the large power boat next to us – in the end he manhandled us back into the slip.
As you might imagine, emotions were running. Questions abounded and answers evaded. Andy, who has been running his charter yacht from his berth in Kardamena for 22 years said he had never seen anyone hit anything where we did and could not understand it. I guess we just got lucky!
After several days of mucking about with it, I managed to lower the rudder into a new position about 15mm lower, so that it cleared the interference with the hull – ‘fortunate’ that I am familiar with the rudder construction since I bent it once before in Scotland! Steering was still heavy indicating the rudder shaft must be bent between the upper and lower bearings – but at least we could manage for the time being – at least while Abigail and Greg were with us and we’d probably also to able to get ourselves to our winter berth in Finike, Turkey, some 200 miles away, under our own steam.
Add Insult to Injury
We took a day trip by bus to Kos town to talk with the marina’s engineering manager about possible fixes they might be able to achieve – we also picked up the wayward computer!
On our return to the boat, Andy cautioned us to ‘check the boat!’ Another sailboat ‘Izanami’ had arrived alongside us. Hearing Andy’s warning, we took a look along the length of the boat but couldn’t see anything. The captain of Izanami came out and explained that while backing into the berth, he had lost control and ‘gently’ tapped Toodle-oo! I asked him to tell me where: “up by the shrouds.” We looked again, but could see no damage – the benefit of having a strong Blue Water boat… not so much…
Izanami left shortly afterwards – and only then did we realize that they had actually moved one of our fenders to cover new damage to the rub-rail along with some cracking to the fiberglass beneath it… What kind of complete asshole does that??? (It’s my blog – I can say that when it’s totally deserved!)
Abigail and Greg Arrive
I’m flattered that Abigail would choose to come visit us during her honeymoon – I just wonder what Greg made of it all!?
By the time they showed up, we were pretty calm and collected. I’d managed to pick up the wayward computer, jury rigged the rudder and dived on it with Andy out in the clear water of the anchorage – time to enjoy my daughter and her husband’s company.
There’s enough to do in Kardamena to keep them entertained for a day – which they managed to stretch to two. We were then going to sail to the nearby island of Nisyros which has a very distinctive volcanic crater but instead, elected to take the ferry and rent a car for the day. It was an interesting trip and we managed to time our visit to the crater perfectly, arriving just as all the tour buses were leaving to go see some other part of the island. We had the entire crater to ourselves!
Later, we found the natural sauna – right on the side of the road and hot as blazes! Then lunch was at a lovely little marina. The only thing we didn’t find was the monastery – another time perhaps!
The following day we sailed Toodle-oo! (well mostly motored but did get an hour or two with the spinnaker to satisfy Abigail!) up to Kos Town – Mandraki marina where we again med-moored. There’s rather more to do in Kos plus they mixed in a one day cruise over to Bodrum in Turkey for an interesting day out.
Before you know it, it’s time for them to head out on the final leg of their honeymoon – a couple of nights in Paris!
Checking Out of Greece
Laurie has the process down:
- Go to Port Police, give them whatever they want (for the umpteenth time) and have them stamp our crew list.
- Go to Passport Control have them stamp the crew list & Passports
- Back to Port Police, show them passports and have them stamp the Transit log
- To customs – no doubt show them everything that everyone else has already check six ways to heaven, give them the transit log and then we have to leave within 24 hours…
Well… we had a little issue. Port Police were happy – actually ecstatic that our transit log was so complete… but at passport control…
Normally, Brits (post Brexit) and Americans are only allowed to stay in Europe 90 days out of 180… We’ve actually been in Europe almost continually since we arrived in Spain in 2020 – other than a couple of side trips to the US and Mexico – BUT… I have / had Portuguese residency – which allowed us to stay in Portugal indefinitely. Then, Laurie got her Portuguese passport…
Every time we entered Europe, we checked in using our US passports. Passport Control could only see that we must have outstayed our welcome – by a lot! Laurie explained that she has a Portuguese passport and therefore can stay indefinitely – and since I’m her spouse, so can I. (Her Portuguese passport is in her maiden name which is why she wasn’t using it.) She showed them the EU regulation on her phone (which they -pretended?- to read)… No good. She needed a stamp into Europe – but her stamp was in the US passport… (What a load of baloney that is!) They threatened to hold our US passports – things were getting tense! Finally, when I revealed that I was a Portuguese resident – all was forgiven! Makes no sense whatsoever – but they stamped the passports and we’re good!
Back to Port Police – they saw the stamps and stamped the Transit Log. Customs wanted to see all the paperwork again – and make the 28th copy of everything – and then they sent us on our way!
We head to Turkey in the morning!
