We went to Fort William with one goal in mind – to get to the top of the UK’s highest mountain – Ben Nevis.

We actually had a couple of really good walks – one along Glen Nevis to a magnificent waterfall and then the second day was a long slog up The Ben. The last bit was trudging through snow! We made it though!

(Click on photos to enlarge)

Interesting warning!

Photographing this snail when this bird landed beside me. Photo taken with a 7mm lens!

Waterfall

Interesting swing bridge

And More

More Waterfalls

Waterfall in Glen Nevis

Going up The Ben

And Cold

It was as hard as it looks

Looking down on a rainbow

Stunning views on the way up

We got there – and didn’t see a thing!

While we’ve been laid up awaiting a new rudder, we’ve been out and about enjoying Scotland… in our fancy rental van…

First we headed up past Oban, right up the Great Glen and then over to Ullapool. We went further north to Achiltibuie and climbed Stac Pollaidh – except we got stuck from reaching the top – needed serious rock climbing gear. We must have missed the correct route – it was foggy!

We encountered all types of weather and magnificent scenes in all sorts of moods. The Gorse was in full bloom – along with the Broom.

Oban

We climbed this!

On the way up…

Quite steep!

OK we didn’t actually get to the top which required rock climbing…

And the fog came down anyway…

Our special rental – -overlooking Ullapool.

Gorgeous Glens all over the place.

Goofy ear!

How cute!

Scottish moodiness…

Picnic site…

Another Scottish rock!

Sailboat in the sound of Skye with Cullins in the background…

Pink Beach!

Overlooking Skye

Road to Applecross

Portree in Skye

Ahhh…

Fixer upper!

Since bending our rudder in the bay outside Lagavulin distillery, I’ve had lots of time to ponder the whole event and realize the numerous errors – some ridiculously obvious – that I made… So for a little bit of self-flagellation, here’s the list (maybe it’ll help someone else…):

Before hitting rocks:

• Don’t enter a knowingly tight bay on a falling tide.
• Worse still, be aware of the tide conditions before entering the bay!
• Don’t enter a knowingly tight bay without best possible charts or instructions.
• If you’re not sure of the lay of the land inside a bay, and there’s nothing stopping you anchoring just outside safely, then the smart and seamanlike choice is to anchor outside the bay.
• Make sure your depth sounder is calibrated correctly and that you understand the datum.

After hitting rocks:

• Don’t give up on reversing gently off the rocks too quickly. Moving forward (just because it goes) is likely to land you higher and drier than before.
• Attempt to rock the boat as you reverse off.
• Don’t panic. The bumping, grinding and shaking of the mast are exceedingly frightening and distressing, but it all sounds far worse than it really is. The boat is most likely safer sitting on the rocks than being dragged off them.
• Have a second anchor ready to deploy.
• Deploy second (kedge) anchor via the dingy, off the stern – in the direction from which you came – maybe not such a good idea – see postscript.
• Failing a rearward kedge, attempt a sideways kedge, with anchor attached to stern and to a halyard in a bridle fashion. Lean the boat over as you’re pulling her out.
• If you accept a tow, attach to the stern and follow the direction in which you entered.

Minimal damage to keel.

The damage done to Toodle-oo!’s keel and rudder bottom suggests that we could easily have sat there taking the horrible abuse and waited for the tide to turn and rise and simply float off. It was amazing to us both how minimal the damage was. Because we were mid tide and it was falling, it would have been a long painful wait – but if all other actions failed, it would most likely have been a far less damaging result than our final rescue was.

In chatting with the Workshop Manager at Ardfern Yach Center (where we await our new rudder), he indicates that most damage is done to boats when they are towed off rocks – not by being on them…

PS: It has been pointed out to me  (thanks Paul Lever) that reversing out may not be the best approach – for fear of damaging the exposed rudder – and banging it past it’s stops. I agree with this… however, if only the keel has touched, if you can immediately come back the way you came in, I do think that would be best. We tried, but before getting any success, the boat pivoted – now we could not come back out the way we went in.

Paul also mentioned sounding around the boat to locate the deepest water. Great idea! This stupid fool even has a hand held depth finder for just such a purpose – but didn’t even think to use it – even up to now!

Rudder bent backwards

Toodle-oo! was hauled yesterday and her rudder removed. The rudder post is bent right where it exits the boat, allowing the back of the rudder to foul the hull and jam (solidly).

Temporary fixes are possible, but confidence would be lacking and besides, the boat yard has plenty on it’s plate, so we’d be here a while anyway. So, we’ve bitten the bullet and ordered a new rudder – to be shipped from the factory in China… It’ll take 3 weeks to get here.

The damage to Toodle-oo! was minimal. The bottom of the keel was ground up in a couple of places and the bottom of the rudder too. Overall not near as much damage as we both thought would be there judging by the bumping and grinding she did while on the rocks.

Minimal bumps and scrapes on the rudder

Minimal damage to keel.

Not bent sideways…

This leads me to the unfortunate conclusion that if we’d simply have hung tight on the rocks and tried to stabilize her there with anchors, we’d have been in a much better position to float her off when the tide rose. Alternatively we could have continued our efforts to lean the boat over by attaching an anchor to a halyard (reducing her depth) and pull her off sideways…

Instead we were panicked, and had the rib pull us off the rocks. When we were on the rocks, the rudder was free to move (when it wasn’t stuck in a crevice) – but it appears now that it was the act of towing off the rocks that actually bent the rudder stock. This is not to blame Bertie and his crew in any way – we were certainly the ones calling the shots and wanted off the rocks come what may.

Now what? We’re going to enjoy Scotland for a few weeks by car, B&B, tent, etc – interspersed with various boat projects that we’ve been slow to get at. Laurie seems hell bent on refinishing the floors for example!

Everyone here has been exceedingly helpful during this ordeal – First Bertie and then Gus and the rest of his crew in Port Ellen for the towing, several dives to evaluate and then the Herculean efforts to straighten the the rudder to facilitate the tow up to Ardfern. The couple who’s name we didn’t even get that were in a boat at Port Ellen, who gave us an old CCC cruising directions (in case we decide to go visit Skye!). Phil Lambert of Outbound Yachts has been tremendous, answering all sort of idiot questions from me from his digs in China – I no doubt got him out of bed a couple of times! Then when we arrived in Ardfern, OCC members Simon and Sally Currin welcomed us, Ju and Liz have lent tremendous support – we were even offered Ju and Liz’s house as a place to stay while they are away in Norway. David Wilkie provided serious technical assistance when the rudder was pulled – offering several short term options to get us back on the road quickly. We were offered the use of cars from people we’d never met – the list goes on. What a great community the cruising/sailing community is! Thanks to All.

Here’s a beautiful view of the back of the boat this morning…

We’re at Ardfern Yacht Haven at the top Loch Craignish. These guys are apparently the best in the area for fixing boats… just what we need…

Yesterday Gus, our new hero, along with Alec towed us all the way from Port Ellen to Ardfern – a 5 or 6 hour tow, during which we probably averaged about 8.5 knots! All was pretty uneventful – though the ending was a little interesting – working out how to tow a boat into a slip – but we had Toodle-oo! in reverse and everything seemed to settle into place just nicely.

Gus, with Alec at the helm, towing Toodle-oo! up Loch Craignish

Towed along the Sound of Jura

Past the Paps of Jura…

Bonnie Scotland indeed!

Gus and Bertie – and the rest of Gus’ crew have been absolutely fantastic. They’ve now towed us twice, dived on us twice – actually three times – and been generally encouraging throughout the rotten ordeal.

Gus owns StormCats http://www.stormcats-islay.com/ where he builds twin hulled power thingys (sorry Gus!) and runs a boatyard to boot. It’s quite clear that everyone on the islands knows Gus – and Bertie – they seem to be the go-to guys. Bertie is Chairman of the Port Ellen Harbour Association – the voluntary group that runs the marina in Port Ellen. They are both involved in developing opportunities for the islanders and Gus provides opportunities for young people entering the workforce. It was a real pleasure to meet these two truly community minded folk – who simply could not do enough to help out. Thanks guys!

We arrived in Ardfern and were immediately greeted by Liz MacInally from the OCC who lives a stone’s throw from the yard with Ju Randall and after an hour or so Simon and Sally Currin (also OCC) showed too. What a welcome!

We are now awaiting a haul-out – delayed a day – to evaluate what’s to be done about the rudder – can it be fixed or is it in need of replacement. Hopes are high that we’ll be able to get a fix in place (perhaps temporary) that will get us across the North Sea and into the Baltic in time for our planned cruise with the OCC. However, with a Trans-Atlantic crossing planned for the end of the year, perhaps we’ll simply opt for the safest route – new rudder.

So we set off from our sweet anchorage in Gigha, destination Port Ellen on Islay – home of my most favorite peaty Scotch. I like them all, but Lagavulin is my favorite.

Our delightful anchorage in Gigha

Big Rhododendrons on Gigha

There was no wind today, so we motored. About half way across the 20 or so mile journey, I realized that there was a possibility of actually mooring or anchoring right in front of the Langavulin distillery… had to be done.

The book says it’s a very tricky approach – but that once inside behind the jagged rocks, there are two visitor moorings that can he had.

We approached the hallowed site cautiously. It appeared as though there were two possible entrances. The one that had a red and green pole sticking out seemed the logical choice so we started heading in – very gingerly. As we got closer, I chickened out and turned around for another look-see.

We moved over to the ‘other entrance’ – much wider – so cautiously entered. We saw what looked like a visitor mooring so headed for it. Edging slowly forward at less than 2 knots, Laurie looking for rocks, me watching the depth sounder – which fell to 2.8M – plenty of clearance – NOT. Bang. Grate. Grate.

Hard reverse succeeded in turning the boat only. I was stuck hard. Forward and back did no good – other than to bounce us along the rocks. Then suddenly the rudder wouldn’t turn. It’s on the bottom – not good.

We mounted the engine on the dingy and dropped the main anchor into it – which I towed out to the center of what appeared to be clear water and dropped it. However, engine and anchor still couldn’t budge us.

I set to it again – this time planning to attach a halyard to try to lean the boat over. Was just about the drop the anchor when white knights appeared in the form of Bertie and Neil aboard a nice big rib – from the boatyard just a 100M away!

We attached a line and they managed to tow us out – with much scraping grinding and crunching in the whole process. Quite frightening and very distressing. Unfortunately as we came off the rocks, I realized the rudder was solidly stuck – to starboard – and we were nearly towed back onto the rocks as a result!

Slowly they towed us out through the entrance and into clear water, where we dropped anchor to regroup.

Next thing you know, Bertie’s off to find Colin – who’s diving close by – and they come back and Colin takes a look. The rudder is jammed hard against the hull. Some scrapes and gouges on rudder and keel too.

Bertie supervising Colin as he prepares to dive

Rescue crew to hand

Plans are made to tow us to Crinan – which has a big and capable yard. Gus, the owner of the nearby yard feels that Toodle-oo! is a bit much for him to handle. He calls Crinan for us but unfortunately it turns out that they would not be able to do anything for at least 4 weeks. Another yard close by Crinan, Ardfern is also heavily booked – it’s launching season…

Gus decides to tow us to Port Ellen as there’s a storm brewing and we’d be too exposed where we are. We set up a bridle, upped anchor and he started the tow. Unfortunately, with Toodle-oo’s rudder over to starboard, Toodle-oo! went right, the tow boat went left and the next thing you know the tow rope is pulling the tow boat back towards us and crash – she comes hard into our stern quarter. Bertie’s boots did a good job of minimizing the damage, but we now have an annoying lump of gel coat missing at the transom.

Plan B – they took us by the hip and we motored slowly away towards Port Ellen – a couple of miles down the coast. Unfortunately, the rudder in Toodle-oo! basically overpowered the tow boat. Even with it’s twin rudders turned to port, it’s port engine in reverse and starboard forward, if he made any more than 1.5 knots, our combined mass turned to starboard! It was a painfully slow ride back to Port Ellen. But we are now in a dock, regrouping.

Gus dived on the boat to have a look for himself – and will be back in the morning for another look. We need to get the rudder free before we can consider being towed up to Crinan some 50+ miles away…

More later as we work out a solution…

All well aboard – but as you might imagine, feeling pretty stupid and very let down.

Another 60 miles today – finds us in Gigha, a small island off Kintyre. The sail today was very enjoyable – but long. We started out from our overnight anchorage in Brown’s Bay outside Larne, Northern Ireland – light winds found us motoring downwind – but then as the wind built we got the spinnaker out. Then it started to blow a bit so we switched spinnaker for Genoa. We ended up coming dead downwind ‘wing on wing’ with poled out genoa and prevented main, using all the new gizmos appended Toodle-oo! during the winter – and delightfully bringing yet more ropes into the cockpit – to Laurie’s dismay! We’re now sitting out a rain storm in our bubble, having anchored on second attempt – first attempt was fouled by my first encounter with kelp!

While consuming a bottle of plonk and some unfortunately bad cheese, we watched as two boats came in after us and moored up to the several available moorings – they took WAY longer than our anchoring and there was definitely more swearing going on too – on both boats!

We’ll stay here a day or so – it’s only a small island, then move to Islay – probably Port Ellen on the southern coast – close to the serious distilleries! Looking forward to testing some super peaty Scotch!!!

And what a beauty!

We left the dock at 6:40am, hailed the harbormaster for a lock opening and by 6:50 we were heading out into our nemesis, the Irish Sea.

First, let’s get the battens into the main and the reefing lines all set up – NOT. Engaging the autopilot (2^nd Mate) yielded nothing – nada – nowt. The autopilot is buried deep in the stern of the boat – about the most inaccessible spot. The Irish Sea is doing its number – ie: lots of wave action – so while I’m trying to sort it out, I’m also getting rather queasy – in spite of taking a preventative Stugeron…

No joy – I can’t work out what’s wrong… We decide not to head back into Whitehaven with it’s lack of Chandlery – but instead we’ll hand steer to Peel Harbor on the Isle of Man – with a small chandlery… Let’s get those battens in the main. As is my habit, I turn on the autopilot when we’re into the wind – and lo and behold, it works!!! We’re good to go!

We got the battens in (these give the sail good shape) and rigged the reefing lines (which allow us to make the mainsail smaller for sailing in higher winds). Finally we’re actually sailing at 8:20am – headed for Larne in Northern Ireland, some 80 miles distant…

The weather was very kind to us – it was dry (YAY!!!) and it was windy (Double YAY!). We set off in 20kts of wind with small jib and double reefed main, making 8.5 knots!

We traversed westward across the Irish sea, doing between 8 and 10 knots, with unfortunately a 2 – 3 kt current against us!

Romping through the Irish Sea

As we approached the southern tip of the Mull, the seas grew significantly with waves in the order of 6-8ft – and we were going across them – making for a distinctly rolly ride. ETA to Larne looked ominously late at 10pm, but as we rounded the Mull of Galloway, we got a favorable current – and winds up to 35kts! – so made it to the destination shortly after 7pm and anchored in a quiet little bay – all by ourselves!

Anchorage in Brown’s Bay, Northern Ireland

Other than it being s cold day, we were lucky that the only time it rained was during anchoring – and it bucketed down!! Overall it was a very good day of sailing – and ended up being 98NM distant!

Check our route under the tab at the top “Where are We”

We’re off in the morning on the next 6 month leg of our cruise…

The last week has seen us commission the boat in Whitehaven, Cumbria – Northern England. The boat was filthy – and still is not as clean as we’d like – but she’ll get us out. Weather has been up and down – mostly down – slowing our preparations a couple of days – but finally we’re ready.

The tide turns a little before 3:00am – which means we have to be out of here by 7:30 to ensure plenty of water beneath the keel. We’re heading north – to Scotland – and the wind is set favorable (unfortunately not the rain…) for the next couple of days – after which we’d have been battling headwinds. Winds from the south make our first planned anchorage rather untenable however – so our first sail of the season will be out into the bleak Irish Sea, right across to Ireland – with planned anchorage of Larne in Northern Ireland, some 75 – 80 miles as the crow flies. Bailout anchorages will be Peel (Isle of Mann), Bangor, Northern Ireland, or West Tarbet Bay – our first planned anchorage.

Tuesday looks to have favorable winds to take us north – hopefully to Port Ellen on Islay – where we plan to introduce Laurie to the merits of the finest Scotch available!

We’ll post updates as often as possible – plus with any luck I’ve found someone that will be able to fix my Google-Maps insert so you’ll be able to see where we are. We’ll also be activating the Spot – (today) – so the “Where we Are” tab should link to the Spot website…

All well aboard Toodle-oo! – Love to all!