The Passage: Boston – Azores

Friday June 7. It’s day 6. It’s uncomfortable typing this as the desk is at a 20 degree angle and I’m trying to hold on – which is both a bad thing and a good thing. It’s not convenient, but it means we’re sailing – and since I have the computer out, it means the seas are relatively calm. Marvellous!

 

We left Boston early on Sunday morning on a really nice morning and managed to sail our whole way out of the harbor and on past Cape Cod – though the really nice morning turned into a boisterous sail that was set to stay for a couple of days as we made our way south east towards the gulf stream. Once there, plan is to move in and out of the stream according to weather conditions (in when it’s nice, out when it’s not) in order to take advantage of the positive current when we can.

 

The seas were nasty – not very high – probably only 4 ft. with occasional bigger waves, but they were closely spaced giving a really choppy ride. Dramamine managed to keep my seasickness at bay (just) and even the hard bellied Laurie had to take the occasional helping pill. By the end of day two, we were both questioning what the hell we were doing miles from land on a bucking bronco that we were forced to stay on for the next two weeks. Laurie’s demeanor was further afflicted on day two by rain and the constantly wet boat – not easy to keep a clean home when every surface is wet or damp.

 

We were following Commander’s Weather routing – and Dave there had explained to me that the initial days would have good wind – and even when his forecast email arrived and it was there in black and white that we’d see winds in the 20 – 30 knot range and seas building to 9 ft., it didn’t dawn on me that those would be challenging conditions. We’ll reef, the boat will manage it – heck it’s been through worse than that… (I’d forgotten how much I hated the worse than that…). Consequently, on day two when we managed to reach Canadian Maritime Forecaster Herb Hilgenberg who operates a voluntary service for idiot yachties like us and he suggested heading North East, we jumped at the reasoning and immediately began to feel the relief of not pounding into those rotten waves. He was however predicting that the following day we’d see near gale conditions – but with the boat running off, at least she should be able to manage considerably better than if we were still pounding into those  waves…

 

Day 3 ended up being a really good sailing day with winds from the south west as we headed east north east. We never did see the gale – which had Herb totally baffled when we called in later that day.

 

It was on day three that I noticed that the wind generator – who had been providing a beautiful 20 – 30A input to the batteries constantly, looked to have suffered some damage. I can only imagine that a bird or a flying fish took a wrong turn through the blades and got chopped into three pieces! Two of the blades are seriously damaged, the third is also affected – I don’t dare run the machine now for fear of a blade letting go and killing one of us! Serious dent in our battery charging regimen…

 

The day was misty, continuing the wet boat syndrome but with the nice progress and lower seas, plus the knowledge that we were pressing on well ahead of schedule, sprits were up. As evening approached the wind disappeared and what there was came from aft, making sailing very challenging. Making matters worse, Gail, our monitor windvane (mechanical automated steering mechanism) is incapable of holding a course to closer than +/- 20 degrees – which in a downwind sailing configuration is ripe for an accidental gybe with consequent damage possibilities. This left us with an option of running the hydraulic auto pilot (Otto) – but he’s a great consumer of energy and noisy to boot. We ended up opting to run the engine overnight and aim directly for our next waypoint, due east  – and get some rest.

 

Having motored noisily all through the night, we took the decision to depart from Herb’s latest advice and headed south east instead of east on Day 4 – in an attempt to sail. By heading south east, we could utilize Gale on a heading that she can maintain (reach) – therefore eliminating both the noisy engine – which was now not charging batteries either – and the power hungry Otto. The day ended up being a great day for us.  Sunny and dry. The boat dried out quickly. Sprits soared!

 

In the evening, once again the winds lightened and for a second time in two nights, we found ourselves missing a gorgeous sunset as we battled various sail combinations all to no avail – ending up running the engine overnight.

 

We ended up running right through the Gulf Stream without even noticing it! Instead of being this nice straight stream of positive current, the bloody thing meanders this way and that – and unfortunately on Day 5 we managed to go this way when we should have gone that – and in the ended experienced a counter current for more than 24 hours while looking for a good current. The gulf Stream isn’t particularly visible – no road signs tell you where it is and while I thought we’d know by temperature, we’ve so far found that to be a rather elusive method… The saving grace of day five – it was a wonderful sunny day albeit without wind. We motored most of the day (with tunes blasting out from the new cockpit speakers while we sat on the cabin top) and into the night. (How much fuel do we have???) We did however enjoy a very nice sunset with the entire ocean to ourselves. We also managed to get our laundry done and dried in the beautiful sunshine!

 

The afternoon’s chat with Herb was somewhat curtailed due to poor propagation. His basic instruction, go South East to avoid gale force winds to the north. OK Herb, you da boss! And the engine drones on.

 

Day six and here we are. Sailing East South  East, with the winds slowly backing to the west allowing us to go further and further south – following Herbs advice – and the noise is wonderful – just rushing water.

 

We managed to pick up some emails this morning in better propagation than we’ve had for a couple of days, but by the time we’d written responses, the propagation had evaporated again. Rats!

 

Challenges to date:

 

We’d been concerned about our watch system – especially regarding night watches. However, it all seems to have worked out quite well. Laurie has been a wonderful support – making sure I get enough sleep to take on the evil serpent watch (11pm – 4am) – so I sleep before and after the watch. Granted the first few days we were tired, but as things have progressed and we’ve gained a rhythm, both of us seem to be getting sufficient sleep.

 

Our concerns about charging of batteries is being managed by a somewhat reluctant engine alternator putting out some power and the generator that we use to develop power for the watermaker – which so far has added about 60 gallons! Showers aplenty! (Cousin Charles, eat your heart out!!)

 

The jury is out on the new safety harness regimen – which puts a harness on each jack line, on each side of the mast and two in the cockpit. The idea being you pick up the relevant harness as you roam over the boat – therefore never being un-harnessed at any time. It works, and we like that we never bring a harness inside the boat to ding the woodwork, but it’s complex and sometime so bloody frustrating that we abandon everything! Still working on this.

Laurie has been preparing her usual maritime dinners – Pasta and sausage, Beef Stew, Corned beef and cabbage, fresh bread, etc. It’s been great – though with some of the lumpy ride, difficult to really appreciate most days.

 

Alcohol: 1st drink for either of us (me) was on day 4. Day 5 saw us both enjoy a beer at lunchtime and a glass of red in the evening. We’re both getting thinner!

 

Life is good aboard Toodle-oo!

 

Toodle-oo! Update

By Abs

Woke up to my first Toodle-oo! update this morning on day 3 of their voyage. 

“Had a rough start to the passage with winds running 25kts and 4-6ft choppy seas. Running with double reefed main and reefed jib and still doing over 8kts. As a result our, our first 24 hour run was 185 miles – 35 miles further than expected!

“Had a close call with a fishing boat at 3am yesterday morning – he wasn’t listening to his VHF. Managed to get his attention when only 100 yards away!

“Wet and queezy but otherwise all good aboard Toodle-oo!”

Stay tuned!

Ready for the Off…

We’re on a mooring now, ready for a quick escape tomorrow morning at first light. The dingy is aboard and strapped down, everything is stowed and we’re both (believe it or not) looking forward to actually getting going tomorrow.

Commanders Weather has given us a favorable forecast for the following seven days which should see us reach about the half way mark to the Azores. We’ll be heading South East until we hit latitude 39 which will be the southern edge of the gulf stream at which point we head due east, moving into the stream during good weather and south of it when there look to be squalls around. While in the stream we’ll gain about a knot – not to be sneezed at. We should be able to manage about 150 miles per day – sometime more, sometimes less.

We’ll update our spot position daily – probably twice daily (need some entertainment) so you can follow where we are. Additionally, if I can manage to work out the email system, I may be able to send text messages to Abigail via our SSB HAM radio, for upload onto this blog…

Another piece of entertainment is an open experiment we are participating in – submitting data to Plymouth University in England who are enlisting yachties to take measurements of the plankton health with a Secchi disc. We have a 12” diameter disc, painted while, which we will lower on a measuring tape into the water. When the disc disappears from view, we measure how deep it is. An iPhone app will then record our position and data (depth, water temp, etc) and upload it to the University when we are back in cell range. We took our first measurement today – 2.8 meters… The only downside of this whole think: we have to stop to take measurements… hmmm…

 

Final Prep

We’re now on final preparation for the trip to the Azores. Commander’s Weather has blessed a Sunday departure. Of course, just to add some spice into the whole thing, the Inverter/Charger stopped working – which is not very comforting. I managed to get it going by turning it off and on a couple of times – but it seems like it’s a bit of a weak link. Adding a problem, it’s remote display is now displaying dutch – as in double – so I can’t even troubleshoot it. We considered strongly delaying until a new unit could be purchased – which would put our departure back to Tuesday, but Commanders feels like the weather will not be nearly as good then, with possible difficulties later in the week. We’ve therefore decided to press on and keep our fingers crossed. We do have a back-up plan – in that the generator also powers a separate 50A charger – and while the generator is on we can recharge any AC equipment. Fingers crossed!

We did our last grocery shop and filled tanks with water – now have to find fuel.

Departure is set for early Sunday morning and we’ll be sending out twice daily Spot signals so you can follow our progress.

Anticipated landfall in Flores is June 16th.

 

Graduation Day

Made it to Boston with the heat wave on Thursday morning and got ourselves situated in a slip at Waterboat Marina – right on Long Wharf in downtown  Boston. Now we’re living!

Dressed the boat in her finery to accept Abigail and her friends for a pre-graduation party aboard Toodle-oo! Friday I watched as Abby graduated – very proud – well done Abs!

Abby party 2

 

Abby Party 1

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Gloomy Day

Gloomy day on Wednesday – started wet, changed to gloomy with no wind so we headed up to Boston with the engine on the whole way. Gave up at Scituate, taking refuge from the noise and the sun came out!

Explored the town a little – small but nice – and then had a delicious clamboil. Nothing better!

Almost too busy to write an account!

 

Heading to Boston today – early start…

 

Messed that up!

Our plan was to go through the Cape Cod Canal today in order to go to Provincetown on the tip of Cape Cod. Doing so requires planning as the current in the canal runs at about 4 knots – making for a very quick – or a very slow transit. Having checked the chart and currents, I worked it out perfectly that we’d go through at noon – leaving time for various jobs on the boat…

I tweaked the Monitor Windvane (energy free self steering mechanism – called ‘Gale’) trying to get her to steer just a little better by tightening lines and so forth. We tried her out in Buzzards Bay and she did fine when close hauled (into the wind) not so well when running with the wind. More work required.

I attempted to move the blades of the wind generator in hopes of balancing them better and remove a worrying vibration – turns out the cap screws holding the blades on screw into captured locknuts – which become uncaptured when loosened! So there I am sitting up on top of the radar arch, reaching up to the generator and dropping nuts onto the deck below. How the first one didn’t fall off the boat I have no clue! The next challenge became how to handle mutiple nuts and bolts while trying to line up blades! After a struggle, I got it back together – but suspect blades went back in their original positions since the vibration still persists!

The we tried out the dingy outboard and found that a fitting on the (new) gas tank was incompatible – requiring a jaunt into town to find a replacement. What a nice place Marion is! Beautiful manicured gardens and charming little stores – and a good chandler!

With the new fitting attached, the outboard started up easily – facilitating a quick visit over to Hawk anchored just nearby. Evans Starzinger is a double circumnavigator – the last time doing it the hard way in the higher latitudes of the southern oceans… wanted to get his take on how to deply a drogue – very helpful…

Once the dingy was taken care of, we were just a little late leaving – 12:30, so would arrive at the canal about 1:30 for a fast passage.

NOT!

What a dummy! – I got the whole thing absolutely arse about face and the current was against us. At least it allowed us to mess around with Gale some and we ended up motoring against the current at the entrance to the canal and took a left hand turn into Onset – where we are anchored in a very nice and sheltered harbor – and perfectly positioned for a 7:30 am transit through the canal tomorrow – with a favorable current this time!

With a lack of boats surrounding us, the SSB radio is being tested out here and I’m delighted to report that reception is good and we’ve been able to hear Herb Hilgenberg and Southbound II reasonably clearly, giving weather information to yachts transiting the Atlantic. He will be a major source of information for us as we cross next week.

Here’s a great photo from our departure dinner at Mike and Jane’s – what a splendid evening! (If you click on the photo it enlarges. In my right hand you’ll see the little Spot device that updates our location in the blog…)

 

toodleoo sendoff dinner 2

 

First Day…

Up at 5:15 on our first day of our circumnavigation!

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Enclosure taken down and packed away, dingy brought over, boat made ready, we left the dock at 7:00am sharp in light breeze and bright early morning sunshine – what better start could we hope for.

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We even got to sail down the normally wind devoid Sakonnet, broad reaching in light 5 – 10 knot beeze, passing by the waving Sterrets on the way, who had come out to watch us leave from the shore beside Almy Rock. As we approached the mouth of the Sakonnet, we got a little glimpse into the rest of the day as the wind built to 15kt+ and the waves were up at 3 – 4ft. We turned left and headed up Buzzards Bay with the building winds from behind us  – but made best speed towards Cuttyhunk…

We took a mooring in Cuttyhunk inner harbor at 11:30 and enjoyed a quick lunch and beer, leaving just 45 minutes later, headed for Marion. We decided to leave the main furled and use both head-sails – one on either side and made a solid 7.5kts in the 20knots of breeze.

Things got interesting as we approached Marion… dumb ass decided that we should fly main and genoa – which required furling the genoa, turning into the wind and raising the main… after furling we turned into the wind and found we were in stronger winds than we realized. It was difficult to head into the wind at all and we slowly compounded one mistake after another, finally necessitating a complete wimp out and we left the main furled and headed on towards Marion under genoa alone.

On the approach to Marion, with wind and sea being quite challenging, we decided to furl the genoa and bring out the smaller jib… but the genoa furling gear was completely and utterly knotted and impossible to clear. It took us an age of trying to untie the knots, an unsuccessful  attempt to drop the genoa halyard, another attempt at untying the know while heading in the opposite direction and finally a successful – if wet – dropping of halyard to bring things under some form of control. We limped into Marion with tails between legs wondering what the hell we were thinking about going around the world. However, after taking a mooring and cracking open a beer, all thoughts of humility dissipated and we reveled in the glory of coming to grips with yet another dire situation.

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We came to Marion to meet a fellow OCC member who will be travelling to the Azores. Gianluca Fiori will be travelling a couple of weeks after us in his Hinkley 51, but we coordinated a meet on Toodle-oo! to compare notes…

“I’ve got to put things away, and go to the Yacht club – I’ll be over in 15 minutes..” Great – an opportunity to have a quick shower… 2 minutes later, the launch drops Gian off on Toodle-oo! and I’m starkers in the shower! After the embarrassing first meeting (don’t normally greet people by showing them my butt!) we settled into a really fun conversation and I look forward to seeing him and his crew in the Azores in a month’s time…

Also looking forward to the possibility of meeting and chatting with Evans Starzinger in the morning – who is anchored in Hawk just a 100yards away…

Still Here…

We are a couple of days late. The weather has not been kind – with erratic winds and cold temperatures, so we wimped out and continued to ready ourselves. Tomorrow’s forecast is much more benign with temperatures reaching the 70’s perhaps and winds starting at 5 – 10, building to 10 – 20.

ready to go

First destination is Marion – meeting up with someone else that’s headed to the Azores this summer, but leaving a couple of weeks after us.

I’ve had butterflies in my stomach the last couple of days – don’t think it was alcohol related! – and so it’s probably a good thing we have the delay – feeling now like it’s time to get out of Dodge. Laurie has also been tense – and saying goodbye is not her strongest suit. But goodbyes are said, we’re ready to go.

New batteries were installed – with great thanks to Brian Gardener for heaving the 175lb monsters out and replacing them with 4 new monsters. The voltage readings are now much more stable and it feels like we have solved that problem…

We now have a spot tracker. It allows me to send a position update regularly via satellite and a link is posted under the menu heading ‘1st: Where are we’   I was hoping to be able to accomplish the same feat through the SSB radio, but have not had a chance to get the thing working right – or at least tested (hopefully it’s working fine). Over the course of our sail up to Boston we’ll attempt to get the SSB going properly – but even so, it’s nice to have the Spot as a backup.

Food and clothing are all aboard – everything is aboard and packed away. You’d never know that we have all our belongings in the boat – it still looks nice and neat – at least on the surface!

The monitor windvane is back aboard with new control lines – and we hope to use it most of the way and avoid use of the autopilot which is a bit of an energy hog.

We will be using a weather router – Commander’s Weather – who we are to contact on May 30th to see if a June 2nd departure makes sense. They will provide us with their advice on which direction to head and where to avoid. In addition we hope to pull on the resources of Herb Hilgenberg for daily log-in and updates to the weather forecast – and his advice on which way to turn.

So, early morning start tomorrow – will check in when we get to our first port of call!

 

Last Minute Tasks Take Over

We’ve been feverishly working on getting the boat ready for the off on Saturday, but things are conspiring against us and now Mother Nature has played her hand and dealt us a really crappy weekend of weather. Who wants to set off on a world journey in crappy weather?

So we’ll take advantage and get some of those last minute things taken care of in a more orderly fashion and leave in a day or two when the weather has moderated.

Last night Jim Thompson came aboard to look at our electrical system and cleared up a few questions I had – not the least of which was confirming that our battery bank is as dead as a door nail. New batteries are available at a local chandler – all I have to do now is remove the four 175lb batteries and drop in the new ones… easy peezy!

Jim also helped me to understand my overall charging system better – something you’d have thunk I’d have full control of by now – and then he told me that the whole navigation system needed major calibration – so I’ve got some work to do there too! Thanks Jim!

We’ve been unable to sell our cars – so will be parking them at friends houses. I guess that means we’ll have them available when we get back – but we’d much rather have gotten rid of the bloody things! Anyone want a pristine Toyota Matrix? Careful lady driver and dealer maintained…

In spite of the delay, life feels good – we’re going to be more organized by the time we leave and perhaps just a little better prepared…

More later…