Here’s a beautiful view of the back of the boat this morning…

We’re at Ardfern Yacht Haven at the top Loch Craignish. These guys are apparently the best in the area for fixing boats… just what we need…

Yesterday Gus, our new hero, along with Alec towed us all the way from Port Ellen to Ardfern – a 5 or 6 hour tow, during which we probably averaged about 8.5 knots! All was pretty uneventful – though the ending was a little interesting – working out how to tow a boat into a slip – but we had Toodle-oo! in reverse and everything seemed to settle into place just nicely.

Gus, with Alec at the helm, towing Toodle-oo! up Loch Craignish

Towed along the Sound of Jura

Past the Paps of Jura…

Bonnie Scotland indeed!

Gus and Bertie – and the rest of Gus’ crew have been absolutely fantastic. They’ve now towed us twice, dived on us twice – actually three times – and been generally encouraging throughout the rotten ordeal.

Gus owns StormCats http://www.stormcats-islay.com/ where he builds twin hulled power thingys (sorry Gus!) and runs a boatyard to boot. It’s quite clear that everyone on the islands knows Gus – and Bertie – they seem to be the go-to guys. Bertie is Chairman of the Port Ellen Harbour Association – the voluntary group that runs the marina in Port Ellen. They are both involved in developing opportunities for the islanders and Gus provides opportunities for young people entering the workforce. It was a real pleasure to meet these two truly community minded folk – who simply could not do enough to help out. Thanks guys!

We arrived in Ardfern and were immediately greeted by Liz MacInally from the OCC who lives a stone’s throw from the yard with Ju Randall and after an hour or so Simon and Sally Currin (also OCC) showed too. What a welcome!

We are now awaiting a haul-out – delayed a day – to evaluate what’s to be done about the rudder – can it be fixed or is it in need of replacement. Hopes are high that we’ll be able to get a fix in place (perhaps temporary) that will get us across the North Sea and into the Baltic in time for our planned cruise with the OCC. However, with a Trans-Atlantic crossing planned for the end of the year, perhaps we’ll simply opt for the safest route – new rudder.

So we set off from our sweet anchorage in Gigha, destination Port Ellen on Islay – home of my most favorite peaty Scotch. I like them all, but Lagavulin is my favorite.

Our delightful anchorage in Gigha

Big Rhododendrons on Gigha

There was no wind today, so we motored. About half way across the 20 or so mile journey, I realized that there was a possibility of actually mooring or anchoring right in front of the Langavulin distillery… had to be done.

The book says it’s a very tricky approach – but that once inside behind the jagged rocks, there are two visitor moorings that can he had.

We approached the hallowed site cautiously. It appeared as though there were two possible entrances. The one that had a red and green pole sticking out seemed the logical choice so we started heading in – very gingerly. As we got closer, I chickened out and turned around for another look-see.

We moved over to the ‘other entrance’ – much wider – so cautiously entered. We saw what looked like a visitor mooring so headed for it. Edging slowly forward at less than 2 knots, Laurie looking for rocks, me watching the depth sounder – which fell to 2.8M – plenty of clearance – NOT. Bang. Grate. Grate.

Hard reverse succeeded in turning the boat only. I was stuck hard. Forward and back did no good – other than to bounce us along the rocks. Then suddenly the rudder wouldn’t turn. It’s on the bottom – not good.

We mounted the engine on the dingy and dropped the main anchor into it – which I towed out to the center of what appeared to be clear water and dropped it. However, engine and anchor still couldn’t budge us.

I set to it again – this time planning to attach a halyard to try to lean the boat over. Was just about the drop the anchor when white knights appeared in the form of Bertie and Neil aboard a nice big rib – from the boatyard just a 100M away!

We attached a line and they managed to tow us out – with much scraping grinding and crunching in the whole process. Quite frightening and very distressing. Unfortunately as we came off the rocks, I realized the rudder was solidly stuck – to starboard – and we were nearly towed back onto the rocks as a result!

Slowly they towed us out through the entrance and into clear water, where we dropped anchor to regroup.

Next thing you know, Bertie’s off to find Colin – who’s diving close by – and they come back and Colin takes a look. The rudder is jammed hard against the hull. Some scrapes and gouges on rudder and keel too.

Bertie supervising Colin as he prepares to dive

Rescue crew to hand

Plans are made to tow us to Crinan – which has a big and capable yard. Gus, the owner of the nearby yard feels that Toodle-oo! is a bit much for him to handle. He calls Crinan for us but unfortunately it turns out that they would not be able to do anything for at least 4 weeks. Another yard close by Crinan, Ardfern is also heavily booked – it’s launching season…

Gus decides to tow us to Port Ellen as there’s a storm brewing and we’d be too exposed where we are. We set up a bridle, upped anchor and he started the tow. Unfortunately, with Toodle-oo’s rudder over to starboard, Toodle-oo! went right, the tow boat went left and the next thing you know the tow rope is pulling the tow boat back towards us and crash – she comes hard into our stern quarter. Bertie’s boots did a good job of minimizing the damage, but we now have an annoying lump of gel coat missing at the transom.

Plan B – they took us by the hip and we motored slowly away towards Port Ellen – a couple of miles down the coast. Unfortunately, the rudder in Toodle-oo! basically overpowered the tow boat. Even with it’s twin rudders turned to port, it’s port engine in reverse and starboard forward, if he made any more than 1.5 knots, our combined mass turned to starboard! It was a painfully slow ride back to Port Ellen. But we are now in a dock, regrouping.

Gus dived on the boat to have a look for himself – and will be back in the morning for another look. We need to get the rudder free before we can consider being towed up to Crinan some 50+ miles away…

More later as we work out a solution…

All well aboard – but as you might imagine, feeling pretty stupid and very let down.

Another 60 miles today – finds us in Gigha, a small island off Kintyre. The sail today was very enjoyable – but long. We started out from our overnight anchorage in Brown’s Bay outside Larne, Northern Ireland – light winds found us motoring downwind – but then as the wind built we got the spinnaker out. Then it started to blow a bit so we switched spinnaker for Genoa. We ended up coming dead downwind ‘wing on wing’ with poled out genoa and prevented main, using all the new gizmos appended Toodle-oo! during the winter – and delightfully bringing yet more ropes into the cockpit – to Laurie’s dismay! We’re now sitting out a rain storm in our bubble, having anchored on second attempt – first attempt was fouled by my first encounter with kelp!

While consuming a bottle of plonk and some unfortunately bad cheese, we watched as two boats came in after us and moored up to the several available moorings – they took WAY longer than our anchoring and there was definitely more swearing going on too – on both boats!

We’ll stay here a day or so – it’s only a small island, then move to Islay – probably Port Ellen on the southern coast – close to the serious distilleries! Looking forward to testing some super peaty Scotch!!!

And what a beauty!

We left the dock at 6:40am, hailed the harbormaster for a lock opening and by 6:50 we were heading out into our nemesis, the Irish Sea.

First, let’s get the battens into the main and the reefing lines all set up – NOT. Engaging the autopilot (2^nd Mate) yielded nothing – nada – nowt. The autopilot is buried deep in the stern of the boat – about the most inaccessible spot. The Irish Sea is doing its number – ie: lots of wave action – so while I’m trying to sort it out, I’m also getting rather queasy – in spite of taking a preventative Stugeron…

No joy – I can’t work out what’s wrong… We decide not to head back into Whitehaven with it’s lack of Chandlery – but instead we’ll hand steer to Peel Harbor on the Isle of Man – with a small chandlery… Let’s get those battens in the main. As is my habit, I turn on the autopilot when we’re into the wind – and lo and behold, it works!!! We’re good to go!

We got the battens in (these give the sail good shape) and rigged the reefing lines (which allow us to make the mainsail smaller for sailing in higher winds). Finally we’re actually sailing at 8:20am – headed for Larne in Northern Ireland, some 80 miles distant…

The weather was very kind to us – it was dry (YAY!!!) and it was windy (Double YAY!). We set off in 20kts of wind with small jib and double reefed main, making 8.5 knots!

We traversed westward across the Irish sea, doing between 8 and 10 knots, with unfortunately a 2 – 3 kt current against us!

Romping through the Irish Sea

As we approached the southern tip of the Mull, the seas grew significantly with waves in the order of 6-8ft – and we were going across them – making for a distinctly rolly ride. ETA to Larne looked ominously late at 10pm, but as we rounded the Mull of Galloway, we got a favorable current – and winds up to 35kts! – so made it to the destination shortly after 7pm and anchored in a quiet little bay – all by ourselves!

Anchorage in Brown’s Bay, Northern Ireland

Other than it being s cold day, we were lucky that the only time it rained was during anchoring – and it bucketed down!! Overall it was a very good day of sailing – and ended up being 98NM distant!

Check our route under the tab at the top “Where are We”

We’re off in the morning on the next 6 month leg of our cruise…

The last week has seen us commission the boat in Whitehaven, Cumbria – Northern England. The boat was filthy – and still is not as clean as we’d like – but she’ll get us out. Weather has been up and down – mostly down – slowing our preparations a couple of days – but finally we’re ready.

The tide turns a little before 3:00am – which means we have to be out of here by 7:30 to ensure plenty of water beneath the keel. We’re heading north – to Scotland – and the wind is set favorable (unfortunately not the rain…) for the next couple of days – after which we’d have been battling headwinds. Winds from the south make our first planned anchorage rather untenable however – so our first sail of the season will be out into the bleak Irish Sea, right across to Ireland – with planned anchorage of Larne in Northern Ireland, some 75 – 80 miles as the crow flies. Bailout anchorages will be Peel (Isle of Mann), Bangor, Northern Ireland, or West Tarbet Bay – our first planned anchorage.

Tuesday looks to have favorable winds to take us north – hopefully to Port Ellen on Islay – where we plan to introduce Laurie to the merits of the finest Scotch available!

We’ll post updates as often as possible – plus with any luck I’ve found someone that will be able to fix my Google-Maps insert so you’ll be able to see where we are. We’ll also be activating the Spot – (today) – so the “Where we Are” tab should link to the Spot website…

All well aboard Toodle-oo! – Love to all!

She’s out of the water for bottom painting and general spiff up!

We fly from Boston tomorrow (Saturday April 26th), – a couple of days in Paris (working) then join Toodle-oo! on Tuesday 29th – then it’s a mad dash to get everything on, up and in – so that with any luck we can be on our way on May 4th or 5th.

Big question: Will the weather favor our plans for a few weeks in Scotland – or adoption of Plan B – a few weeks in Cornwall???

Trying to get the Google-Mapping feature to work on the sidebar – no joy as of yet,,,

I managed to squeak in a visit to Toodle-oo! last weekend – in between business trips to England and India… Brought two heavy bags full of stuff for the boat – various replacement lines, some clutches and blocks and various bits and bobs to improve radio reception for the SSB.

I installed a couple of new double rope clutches on the side decks that will be used to control both the preventers for the boom and the guys for the pole when sailing deep with the wind. This should make the setting of both much more easy – therefore less daunting – and therefore they’ll get used more often! Certainly interested in seeing how it all works!

Also installed a replacement combiner to maintain charge in the starter battery – the old one had developed a really annoying click every time it turned on or off the power to the starting battery. It was particularly annoying when trying to sleep!

Toodle-oo! comes out of the water in the next few days to get her bottom paint applied and new anodes installed. This year, with our plans to sail into the Baltic, I’ve opted to use a combination of zincs and aluminums – apparently zinc crusts over in brackish water – so I’m hoping that the combination will keep us safe both in the Atlantic and in the Baltic.

One item I’ve not been able to solve is topping up our American propane bottle. Nobody wants to touch the thing in England, so we’re forced to buy an English propane tank as a back-up – for when the remaining tank runs dry. In an attempt to delay such a conversion, we’ve also purchased an electrical hot plate – which we’re hoping to use extensively – and thereby preserve the precious American propane for as long as possible. (I just know in my bones that the bloody tank will run dry mid Atlantic, forcing a plumbing job at sea!)

So, what are we doing in the Atlantic you may ask… Our sailing plans have evolved yet again – we’re now cutting short the Baltic trip a little – partly due to the political situation we’ve decided to avoid Russia, but also because we plan to bring the boat back to the US in the fall – so that (sadly) we can both go back to work full time for a few years to get the kitty properly healthy.

Sailing back to the US in September/October is not without it’s challenges – we’ll be heading into the prevailing winds and currents. Most likely route will be from southern England to the Azores, on to Bermuda and then back to Newport. We did consider the northern route – via Iceland and Greenland – but have thought better of it – though it would be a shorter trip.

All in all, this year’s cruise will amount to about 8,500NM sailed!

We’re still on for an April 27th arrival at the boat – which will hopefully be ready and waiting for us such that we can quickly get our act together and set off for Scotland post haste.

Looking forward to it!

(Will start posting regularly once we’re on our way…)

By the way, Whitehaven, where we landed and parked the boat in England is the only place in England that has been invaded by the Yanks – as this plaque “celebrates” – happened thanks to John Paul Jones back in 1778!

The plaque reads:

The only unfriendly American invasion of Britain occurred at Whitehaven in the early hours of 23rd April 1778. John Paul Jones, who was apprenticed in the town, led men of the Continental Navy ashore and spiked the harbour’s defensive guns before making his getaway. At a ceremony witnessed by representatives of the US Navy on 27th June 1999, Jones was pardoned by the commissioners of the Harbour of Whitehaven, on behalf of the people of the town.

During the ceremony, the Navy presented the town with a huge American Flag. When we arrived in Whitehaven last year, a very nice fellow came down to the dock to greet us as the first American boat “in years” to arrive in England at Whitehaven – he then gave us the immense flag! We therefore have a tenuous link to history!

I think we’re going to have to fly the flag from the masthead when we depart Whitehaven in May! Should be a sight!

Also by the way… the second photo below shows the stream we navigated to get into Whitehaven harbor – not bad for a boat with 6 foot draft!

We’re back on plan. The reason to even think about bringing the boat back – by whatever means – is at a minimum delayed – we’re off to the Baltic this year – and excited by the prospect!

We arrive in the UK on April 27th and head straight to the boat. Hopefully the boat will be in the water having had new bottom paint applied and having been scrubbed and polished! With luck we’ll be able to prepare everything else – bend on sails, a few minor boat chores, etc.,  and provision in just a few (3?) days and then head out, weather permitting into the Irish Sea towards Scotland.

We plan to sail around the Clyde and Argyll regions for the month of May (before the midges come out!) and then through the Caledonian Canal – to see if we can spot the Loch Ness Monster.

We’ll then cross the North Sea to Norway and plan to spend a few days in Stavanger before heading south into the Baltic.

The Ocean Cruising Club is holding a 2 month long ‘come and go’ cruise through the Baltic, right up to St. Petersburg – so we’ll end up visiting Norway, Denmark, Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, Finland, Russia and Sweden. It’ll be nice to have other familiar boats around us as we sail this fascinating area.

On the way back we’ll either go a southerly route; back through the Baltic and the Kiel Canal in Germany to Amsterdam and then to Southern England, Channel Islands and Northern France – or – we’ll go a northerly route through the Gota Canal across Sweden and then over to the Shetlands and back through Scotland’s Hebridean islands.

The end of the year will see us park the boat somewhere in England – or possibly sail her back to the US through September and October – via the Azores and Bermuda.

It’s nice to have a plan – even knowing that it’ll never be fully followed!

Just when you think everything’s planned and the plans are stable, something crops up that throws a monkey wrench in the whole thing…

So, this particular monkey is an opportunity at work that may – I say may advisedly – be silly to pass up.

So we’ve now got 2 plans – one of which is to sail this year up to Scotland, across the North Sea and cruise the Baltic with the OCC for a couple of months. We’re nicely along with that plan – with all the (not inexpensive) charts and cruising guides purchased and Laurie and her mom having stitched together a dozen courtesy flags! The other plan is to ship the boat back to the US!

The opportunity in question is dependent upon a set of circumstances that we hope will be clarified in the next week or so. If it happens though, we’d want to bring the boat back – since I’d have to commit for a couple of years and we’d probably end up living aboard for the duration. So… how to get her back…

1. We could sail her: Whitehaven – Azores – Newport.  Fastest passage probably 30 days – so realistically we need to budget 45 days to commission and then allow for weather delays, etc. That 45 days would be right at the beginning of the New Opportunity! (Not exactly tactful!)
2. We could ship her. How much to ship a 44ft boat from UK to Newport? This requires some road transport from Whitehaven to Southampton – so un-step mast, remove radar arch etc – All in about $45,000!!! plus a bunch of work to take stuff down – and then put it back up at the other end…
3. A combination of both – sail her to Southampton to meet the freighter – means everything stays up on the boat – mast as well. But to do that in April would mean a cold blustery sail from Whitehaven to Southampton in March/April – and requires taking 2 weeks off to ensure we meet the ship in time… 🙁

Right now we’re leaning towards choice 3 – but it’s Friday – Saturday will bring another scenario – or another Monkey!

Watch this space…

Toodle-oo! just survived her first Force 11 storm!

Fortunately the inner harbor at Whitehaven is well protected!