Best guess, it was 51 years ago that the Balme family rolled up in their C reg Cortina Estate and plonked a couple of tents in a field by Killmackillogue’s harbour. (Interestingly, the chart has it’s spelling as Killmackiloge and actually where we are is Bunaw Harbour…) Anyway, a story I often tell (actually it was my Dad’s story, but I adopted it)… In the morning, Dad and I walked down to the harbour where there’s only a couple of buildings – one of which is a Pub… Dad looked in and the publican came out to greet him with; “I’m terribly sorry Sir, we’re not open quite yet, but if you’d care to come in, you can have a drink while yer waitin’!”… Instead of staying there just a day or two, we spent our entire 2 week vacation in Killmackillogue.
The pub is still there – though the new owner, Helen, only moved in in 1974 so didn’t remember me and the fact that I drank the pub dry of ginger beer 51 years previously!
What a fantastic place this is. Laurie, skeptical that it was simply a run down memory lane for me agrees – it was a really relaxing week in a very beautiful and secluded spot. We were able to take several walks – even to the top of Knockatee – a distinctive hill above Killmackillogue – and were able to end the walks at a marvellous pub – where Helen provided the very best mussels and crab or salmon sandwiches.
We came for a couple of days – spent a week! Highly recommend this beautiful and quiet spot on the south shore of the Kenmare River.
Notes on navigation – if you come here, especially at night (no, don’t do it!), aim for the channel markers – right at them! If you stray just 20 ft to the right of the last red, you’ll be in amongst the mussel rafts – which are unlit! The leading lights into Bunaw harbour at night would be good – if you dare – during the day, they’re not turned on – but the Navionics charts are accurate, so no worries. We anchored the first night, but were offered the tour boat, Rosa’s 3 ton mooring – so took it. Glad we had it as we had quite the blow one night.
Next stop: Bantry.