Valdez to Kenai Peninsula

We drove in to Valdez and camped along the Valdez Harbor Inlet.  It was a great spot to watch the fishermen go in and out.  Salmon season was in full swing.  Each day the Alaska Department of Fish and Game determine when the salmon can be caught and the hours. The boats are on the ready.  We watched many come and go and the processing boats coming in with loads. Many boats just stayed out waiting to put their nets out when the ADF&G gave the word.

The same day we arrived in Valdez was a 7.3 magnitude earthquake off Kodiak Island.   A tsunami warning was issued for the southern coast of Alaska. We, luckily, heard about it after the fact and the tsunami warning lasted only about an hour. We only became aware after many friends texted us to ask if we were ok.  This epitomizes how easy it is to forget everything else except where you are and who you are with.  It is a nice place to be in your head.  Did I mention how many evacuation signs we noticed after this?

The next day we explored Valdez on foot and then drove up to Dayville rd. in search of wildlife.  We heard there were bears, eagles, otters and sea lions to be seen here. This was due to the fish hatchery located on the road. The Solomon Gulch Fish Hatchery is the largest pink salmon hatchery in North America.  The facility is permitted to incubate, rear and release 270 million pink salon and 2 million Coho salmon annually.  It was educational and informative to know the extent they influenced the existing salmon population.  Unfortunately, all we saw wildlife wise was many frolicking large Sea Lions.  They were fun to watch as they caught their share of salmon.  Only a few salmon were running up the fish ladder.  No bears in site.  The salmon themselves were a bright red color.

When we got back to our campsite, we were ambushed by a fellow camper to tell us their day’s adventure.  “You must go on this boat!”.  We checked in to it and made a heady decision to book the tour.  There in lay our first mistake (just sit right back and you’ll hear a tale, a tale of a fate full ship and the three-hour tour – for you Gilligan Island fans . . . ).  It sounded great in theory to get on a whale watching, glacier viewing tour.  The 86-year-old captain had built this 83’ boat himself-only 50 passengers at the most . . . .  We packed our cooler and on our way we went.  An hour later in on the tour and we knew.  The kind captain had not taken a breath in his narrative. We knew we were heading for a looooong day.  Four hours in we were determining how cold the water was and whether to jump in.  Two hump back whales- a mother and her calf, puffins and a glorious look at the Columbia glacier later – we were happy to head in – 9 hours later.  The two young ladies (15 and 18) who were first mates were a highlight.  They were enthusiastic about their jobs and dreams of becoming captains!

The following day we took almost the same route to travel from Valdez to Whittier on a ferry.  The 5-hour + ride was the dogs’ initiation into traveling in the camper via ferry.  Dogs are not allowed on deck on ferries.  They were happy to see us when we arrived in Whittier.

We got off the ferry and noticed loads of people in this small town.  Almost all of the residents live in a tower condominium (population 270).  There is a one lane tunnel that links the Seward Highway south of Anchorage and is the only land access to this town. At 13,300’ it is the second -longest highway tunnel and longest combined rail and highway tunnel in North America.  This single lane access under the Maynard Mountain schedules when each direction is open and when the train travels through this.  We were fortunate that we only had to wait 15 minutes before it was opened up for our access (it changes on the half hour).   We boondocked on the other side with another fabulous campfire by Bill.

The next day we had lunch with our neighbors from Midway, Georgia – Nancye and Joe Cadle.  Their kids (and sweet grandkids!) had moved to Soldinata and they introduced us to how the salmon are caught.  Throw a hook in the river and reel them in.  We went under a bridge at the visitor center and watched for quite some time.  Each person is allowed six salmon per day and one King salmon.  If you catch them in the gills and not in the mouth you have to throw them back. Needless to say, the freezers gets full during this time.

 We camped in a beautiful spot call Engineer Lake-Seven Lake Trails.  The pups were allowed to wander and the campfire lit up the dusk sky.  The reflection of the lake was dreamy.  Something interesting on this trip is that I have barely seen the moon.  This has been a strange thing for me.  The light, fog and clouds in the evening sky make it hard to connect with.

Our journey has always been about the road less traveled.  If we are told or the written accounts say “too bumpy, too messy, very rocky, dangerous, need 4 wheel drive” we chose that road.  It always feels like an adventure with Bill.  I keep reminding myself that this is all life is.  We are capable of anything – failure is just another lesson on how not to fail next time.

We were determined to go on a distance hike as we seem to forget to make that an important part of this journey.  We began with a walk up to a waterfall.  Someone had mentioned an old path adjacent to the river.  We were on the Russian River.  We saw the remnants of one and decided that would be our descent and walk back to the truck camper.  We walked up and down the side of an embankment and jumped over rocks on the riverbank to try to not get our feet wet. We had to climb high then low then jump.  It was working muscles I didn’t know existed.  By mile 4ish I decided to just walk in the river.  I was worn out. Bill was still jumping from rock to rock.  At one point I saw a huge tan lump basking in the sun. Bill assured me it wasn’t a grizzly.  As much as I wanted to see a bear I didn’t want to see it that close. Turned out it was just a rock!  There were a few trout fisherman scattered along our walk but the salmon run had not made it that far up yet.  I was glad to get back after 5 hours . . . . .

We headed to Seward and boondocked on a river bed.  The gurgling waters and my tired muscles made sleep come easily.

Arriving in Seward we were going to do our “chore’s” – laundry, shower, get water etc.  The laundrymat was full.  Although neither of us agree on the premise of aquariums we went to the only aquarium in Alaska.  It is the Alaska SeaLife Center.  It is the only public aquarium with marine research, education, and wildlife response and rehabilitation.  It was excellent to see the research boat right outside the window on the shores of Resurrection Bay. It is also a non-profit.

One of the most fascinating things I learned at the aquarium was about the three species of sharks – Pacific sleeper shark, spiny dogfish, and salmon shark. According to the marine scientist giving a talk at the aquarium the Pacific sleeper shark is on average 20’ long. It swims in 500’-600’ water and lives between 250-550 years.   Spiny dogfish are the most predominate and at about 6’ live 100 years. The salmon shark is about 3 and a half feet and occasionally caught in trawl nets and catches are low.

The sea lions were fun to watch swim underwater.  Their flippers are so efficient underwater swimming around and then their ability to use them so well on land. One of our guides in the museum was a very enthusiastic 12-year old that told us great information about birds and animals that were being rehabbed.

Since the river bed boondock was so nice we went again and I got to fly a kite!  The pups could run free and drink from the river.  We ran into another Cirrus camper we had met earlier.  Bill enjoyed talking shop about the beauty of the Cirrus. Knowing nothing about campers I do love the design and easiness of “Toodle-oo!” (Bill’s name for his camper).  The pups love it too.  They are just grateful to be along for the ride.

We ventured on to Hope, Alaska – how can you not go to a town with that name?  It’s an old mining town.  The road was rainy on the way there so we pulled down a gravel pull-off ready to get cozy. It was  about five miles before the town.  We parked on what looked like a lake with a huge mudflat- 30’ between two rock escarpments.  We made sure to park above it.  It was a good thing we did.  We were actually on the Turnigain Arm that leads to the Cook Inlet and out to the Pacific Ocean. The tide rose 30’ over that mudflat.  What a surprise! It was rainy and cold off the road to Hope but a great afternoon.  The drive alone on the road in was worth it.  We bumbled around the little town of Hope the next day – populaton 100, had some lunch (more halibut) and went back to our fantastic campsite. Off in the morning to the big city of Anchorage . . . . . .